What to do after a home inspection

Updated 2026-08-12

The inspection contingency is the shortest, highest-stakes window in a home purchase. In most contracts you have somewhere between five and fourteen days to review the report, get specialists in, decide what you want, and deliver a written request — and if you miss the deadline, in most states your leverage simply expires.

Almost every buyer loses two of those days waiting for the report and another two deciding how to feel about it. This is the sequence that fits in the window.

Your next seven to ten days, in order

  1. 1

    Day 1 — read the report and sort it

    Sort every finding into safety, structure and water, systems near end of life, and cosmetic. Do not draft a repair request yet. The only decision on day one is which items need a specialist to give you a real number.

  2. 2

    Day 1 — book specialists the same day

    Structural engineer, licensed electrician, HVAC tech, sewer camera scan, chimney Level 2, or a mold or radon test if the report flagged conditions. Specialists are the bottleneck in the whole timeline; a structural engineer booked on day one might come on day four and report on day six. Booked on day three, they land after your deadline.

  3. 3

    Day 2 — price the flagged items into ranges

    Get every safety, structure, water, and end-of-life item into an estimated range so you know the total scale. This is what tells you whether you are negotiating over $6,000 or reconsidering the purchase entirely.

  4. 4

    Day 3 to 5 — get real quotes on the big items

    For anything above roughly one percent of the purchase price, a written contractor quote beats any estimate, including ours. A quote in hand also changes the negotiation, because you are no longer arguing about whether a number is plausible — you are showing the seller a document.

  5. 5

    Day 5 to 7 — decide what you are actually asking for

    Choose one of four outcomes per item: seller repairs before closing, a credit at closing, a price reduction, or you absorb it. Credits are usually cleaner than repairs, because a seller who no longer owns the house has no incentive to hire well, and repairs done under deadline pressure are frequently the cheapest version available.

  6. 6

    Day 6 to 8 — deliver the written request through your agent

    Written, specific, tied to the report page or the specialist's finding, and short. Attach the quotes. A request that names four items with documentation reads as reasonable; a request that names thirty reads as a renegotiation of the price and often triggers a flat refusal.

  7. 7

    Before the deadline — respond, extend, or exercise the contingency

    If the seller counters, you accept, counter once, or walk. If you need more time — a specialist has not reported, a quote has not landed — request a written extension of the contingency before it expires, not after. An expired inspection contingency in most contracts means you have accepted the property as-is and your deposit is at risk if you leave.

  8. 8

    After you are through — keep the report as the house's founding record

    The system ages, the deferred maintenance list, and the conditions the inspector told you to monitor are the starting record of a house you will own for years. Store them where you will find them, so that when the roof hits year twenty-two you know exactly when the clock started.

Estimated repair cost ranges

Ranges for the findings that most often need pricing inside the contingency window, so you can tell scale quickly. These are estimates for budgeting, not quotes.

Repair item
Repair itemLowLikelyHigh
Roof repair (localized)one repair area — flashing, valley, or a section of shingles$450$1.1k$2.8k
Roof replacement (asphalt shingle)one 2,000 sq ft roof, tear-off and replace$9.0k$15k$26k
Water heater replacementone 50-gallon tank unit, installed$1.2k$2.1k$4.2k
Furnace or boiler replacementone unit, installed$4.5k$7.0k$12k
Electrical panel upgradeone 200-amp service upgrade$1.8k$3.2k$6.0k
Sewer lateral repair or replacementone lateral run to the main$2.5k$6.5k$18k
Radon mitigation systemone sub-slab depressurization system$900$1.7k$3.2k
Mold remediationone affected area, contained and removed$800$2.8k$9.0k

Estimated range — based on BLS OEWS national average wages and BLS PPI material indexes applied to Our Haus baseline unit costs, as of June 2026. Estimates are shown as a range and help set expectations. They are not a quote, a verified price, or an appraisal of what a contractor will charge.

  • Roof repair (localized): Most inspection roof findings are flashing and valley issues, not the field of the roof. A repair is legitimate when the roof has meaningful life left.
  • Roof replacement (asphalt shingle): Pitch, layer count, and sheathing found rotten at tear-off are the three things that move this most. Ask for a per-sheet unit price on replacement sheathing before signing.
  • Water heater replacement: A like-for-like tank swap is the low end. Code upgrades — expansion tank, new venting, pan and drain, a gas-to-heat-pump conversion — set the top.
  • Furnace or boiler replacement: Straight swaps sit near the middle. Chimney-vented to direct-vent conversions, new gas line, or a boiler with indirect hot water go to the top of the band.
  • Electrical panel upgrade: Utility coordination, a new mast and meter socket, or moving the panel out of a bathroom or closet are what separate a $2k job from a $6k one.
  • Sewer lateral repair or replacement: Trenchless lining is mid-band; open excavation under a driveway or a street cut with a municipal permit is the top. Get a camera scan before agreeing to anything.
  • Radon mitigation system: A slab-on-grade basement with one suction point is straightforward. Fieldstone foundations, crawl spaces needing membrane, and multiple suction points cost more.
  • Mold remediation: The remediation is usually the smaller cost. The water source that caused it, and the finishes torn out to reach it, are the real number.

Upload the report and get a plain-English read

Free and no account needed. We turn the PDF into a prioritised list of findings, the questions worth asking your inspector and your agent, and estimated repair cost ranges for the items that were flagged — using the same cost engine behind these tables.

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Frequently asked questions

How long do I have after a home inspection to ask for repairs?

It is set by your contract, not by law, and is typically five to fourteen days from the effective date — often seven or ten. The deadline is for delivering your written request, not for finishing negotiations, and it is worth confirming the exact date with your agent the day the inspection is scheduled.

Should I ask the seller to repair or to give a credit?

A credit is usually better. It lets you choose the contractor, control the quality, and confirm the work is done to your standard, and it avoids the classic problem of a departing seller hiring the cheapest available fix under deadline pressure. Ask for repairs when the item must be corrected before the lender or insurer will proceed.

Can I back out of a home purchase after the inspection?

If your contract has an inspection contingency and you exercise it in writing before it expires, yes, and generally with your deposit returned. After it expires, in most standard contracts you have accepted the property in its current condition, and walking away puts the deposit at risk.

Do I need a second opinion on inspection findings?

For anything structural, electrical at the panel or wiring level, sewer, or chimney, yes. A general inspector is a generalist by design and will tell you so in the report. A specialist converts "further evaluation recommended" into a scope and a price, which is the only form a finding can be negotiated in.

Is it normal for a seller to refuse all repairs?

It happens, especially in a strong market or on a home already listed as-is. That is information, not the end of the transaction: you still learned what the house needs, and you can decide whether the price still works knowing the number.

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